Slaidburn to Keswick

 June 17th

car boot sale required

Today was never going to be easy. I endured a horrible climb into Slaidburn last evening and today was to start with a huge climb out of Slaidburn. The Hark to Bounty was very frayed around the edges but for £64.74 dinner, bed and breakfast with a couple of pints of Theakston it was certainly good value for money. 

My glycogen stores topped up as well as both my water bottles I set off up the Skaithe which ascends for 3 miles before topping off at 250m. Unfortunately it kept on climbing eventually reaching 427m at Cross of Greet. The views were astounding but a haze prevented me getting any very good photos.

Oh no! (polite version)

Shortly after Slaidburn before the real climbing started I was passed by a local cyclist from Settle, James Forrest. Unlike yesterday, when several road cyclists passed me by without a sideways glance or a hello, James slowed (quite a bit) asnd we chatted about the terrain and lejog. Eventually I had to shoo him on his way before he fell off his bike going at my speed up the hill(s). James I hope you had a brilliant ride. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the landscape was magnificent (but UP) It did eventually turn to DOWN but by then my legs were gone and they never returned throughout the day. 

Fed up of hills maybe I should try this!

My masochistic guide, Nick Mitchell, suggested lunch at Burton in Kendal which is at mile 27 which speaks volumes about the early topography. Between Burton in Kendal and Kendal I came across a catering caravan in a lay by which reminded me of Sal on the A68 from another trip. I stopped for a coffee. At £1 Anne and Jane were not part of a get rich quick scheme. However they were friendly and welcoming and when they asked if I was going far and heard the answer, they  offered me a donation for Samaritans. What lovely ladies and what a lovely gesture it made my day!

Anne and Jane

The rest of the day was a slog to get to Keswick before bed time. From Kendal there were 30 miles left to go on the A591, which was exceptionally busy with Friday week end holiday traffic. As I approached Windermere the clouds were gathering and drizzle turned into steady rain by the time I reached Ambleside. Both Windermere and Ambleside were heaving with tourists sporting anoraks and umbrellas and pretending that the weather didn't matter by continuing to eat outside. 

I was coping until I reached the Dunmail Raise with 11 miles to go to Keswick. A horrible 2 mile drag to an altitude of 250m with trucks and cars and lorries and vans thundering past. At the top, it went up again, I do hate false summits. But what goes up.....

By now the rain was coming down steadily and all of my equipment was given a good try out against the wet. It seems to have passed. My inside top was dry. The contents of my panniers and bar bag were dry and my GPS kept on functioning. My legs are shot but my spirits are high. 

As I came down the 14% hill into Keswick my mobile rang. I was my landlord for the night, Simon, who wondered where I was and if I was alright. I was able to tell him that I was 400m from his house and to expect me imminently. He was waiting by the fornt door and extended a warm welcome. The Brookfield guest house ( 5 rooms) is a well run establishment - the best so far. Everything is well organised and the provision is extensive. He and his wife deserve to do well.

Windermere

I have just returned from Keswick town centre where I have enjoyed one of, if not the best Indian meal ever at the Sultan Indian restaurant on John St. The lamb tikka was delivered to my table still sizzling away and the flavours were oooooohhh. The walk back up the hill wasn't great for the hamstrings but they survived to cycle another day.