Moffat to Balloch

 June 19th

The Balmoral Hotel in Moffat was a lovely stopover, right in the centre of Moffat, really good value for money and a good breakfast to send me on my way. Unfortunately that was the end of the positives today for quite some time. However the day begun more auspisciously when Simon sent a message to wish me a happy Father's Day a fact which had escaped me in my self absorbment. We had a long chat which was nice.

My masochistic guide, Nick Mitchell,  reckoned ,"The first three hours cycling involves a steady ascent from Moffat towards Glasgow, which can be strenuous, particularly in bad weather" It was and it was bad weather namely a horrible steady headwind which had me down to 9kph at times. Having left at just before 08.30 it took me until after 11.30 to cover the first twenty miles to Abington where I stocked up with energy bars and water.

You couldn't make this up. Just as I climbed out of Abington to the roundabout which is junction 13 on the M74 to take the B7078  the only road North on which a bicycle is allowed, I noticed a sign which informed me that the said B7078 was CLOSED and that I should follow the diversion. When I looked at where the diversion went, I decided to chance my arm. I would climb over, carry my bike around, cycle on the cycle track around whatever the blockage there was because THERE WAS NO VIABLE ALTERNATIVE. As it turned out a part of the road was being resurfaced and being Sunday no one was working so the road was completely clear as was the cycle track NCN 74 upon which I was travelling. Panic over I still struggled to pick up any pace against a fierce headwind.

Eventually I passed Happendon Services and through Coalburn and Lesmahagow when a voice from behind said "Hi" in a very strong American accent. It proved to be the voice of Jason a fellow end to ender who had a well laden steed for he was camping.

Jason was a lovely, lively 21 year old from Washington D.C. who had just finished College and was about to enter the world of work as an environmental consultant in the field of clean air research. We got on famously and rode together for about an hour before it became apparent that while we were well matched on the flat Jason was considerably better than me at ascending ( despite the greater weight he was carrying in his panniers) Well he was 21! I didn't want to hold him back so I urged him to go on. Jason I hope you found the Clyde Cycle Way and I wish you nothing but the best for the rest of your trip. 

After I left Jason at Larkhall I pushed on as hard as I could to reach the start of the Clyde Walkway or Cycleway 75 which went all the way into the centre of Glasgow never further than a few metres from the River Clyde eventually passing through Glasgow Green, the city centre and the out towards the Kingston bridge and towards Loch Lomond. Fantastic. The sun came out the wind didn't abate but it was flat and I made reasonable time in the second half of the day to arrive at the Dumbarton North Premier Inn which is about two miles from Balloch.

It has been a tough day, almost 80 miles but I am still on the road to John O'Groats which is getting shorter by the day. 

The final few miles were very scenic following as they did the Forth and Clyde Canal which was very picturesque with picture postcard harbour at Bowling and swans with their cygnets meandering on the water at several points along the way.

Keswick to Moffat

June 18th

No way!

Pehaps it was that I didn't sleep well ( the bed was comfy and I was exhausted) or that I was looking forward to the major milestone that reaching the Scottish border represented, before I had even left Keswick, but I began the day not in my ususual good spirits. 

Simon my host had brought me breakfast in my room on the stroke of 8.00 as promised. The Brooklands Guest House was excellent in every way - best yet - highly recommended. Awake at 6.00 I spent my time searching for an alternative to Mr Masochistic's "The stage commences with a hard uncompromising stretch of cycling Along the flank of Skiddaw at Bassenthwaite Common before reaching higher ground at Faulds Brow"  I decided to just follow the A591 to Carlisle which I had followed all the way from Kendal yesterday. It proved to be a good choice. Reasonably flat and fast and only a mile or two further. On the run in to Carlyle I passed a road sign which amused me. 

Forrester Fold. 

No way.

Carlyle Castle

Other cyclists were noticable by their absence today. Carlyle came and went before lunch time and but for a pesky headwind so would have the Scottish border. The wind from the West veering towards the North West became more of a factor as the afternoon wore on and by the middle of the afternoon was a serious pain in the backside. The road was wide and empty and had a stong gusty wind AGAINST. My mind went back to Forrester Fold but it would take a hurricane against and  even then I would wait for it to abate. The border was a bit anti-climactic because there was not a soul to be seen (save myself) so I was forced to take a selfie ( not my finest hour) to record the moment.

A mile further on is Gretna Green and its eponymous blacksmith ( which to be honest has become very commercialised) at which a wedding was taking place. It didn't look like a runaway wedding (there were too many well dressed guests) but a wedding at Gretna Green nevertheless. 

The afternoon consisted of ticking off the villages on the B7076 after Gretna. Kirkpatrick Fleming, Echelfechan, Lockerbie, Johnstone Bridge, Beatock and finally Moffat where I am comfortable installed in the very centre of town in the Balmoral Hotel which is very good value for money at £50 B&B or £65 for my chicken curry and a pint of Guiness. Well it is Saturday night so I would let my hair down (if I had any.)

I didn't meet a soul all day. I spoke to no one. But I did see something quite remarkable about 10 miles from Moffat. On a flat stretch of the mostly empty B7076 I saw a racing wheelchair

Gretna Green Wedding

whizzing along the road followed by a support vehicle with its flashers flashing. I was stopped for a drink of water (code for knackered and in need of a rest). The pilot turned around and set off back in the direction from which he came. When I set off behind him I was travelling in excess of 20 kph and I didn't get near to him. After about a mile he turned around again and set off to repeat his previous route. I was gobsmacked. I hope he achieves whatever he was training for.

Tomorrow is a long leg - nearly 85 miles so please no adverse weather. 

Empty road

 

Slaidburn to Keswick

 June 17th

car boot sale required

Today was never going to be easy. I endured a horrible climb into Slaidburn last evening and today was to start with a huge climb out of Slaidburn. The Hark to Bounty was very frayed around the edges but for £64.74 dinner, bed and breakfast with a couple of pints of Theakston it was certainly good value for money. 

My glycogen stores topped up as well as both my water bottles I set off up the Skaithe which ascends for 3 miles before topping off at 250m. Unfortunately it kept on climbing eventually reaching 427m at Cross of Greet. The views were astounding but a haze prevented me getting any very good photos.

Oh no! (polite version)

Shortly after Slaidburn before the real climbing started I was passed by a local cyclist from Settle, James Forrest. Unlike yesterday, when several road cyclists passed me by without a sideways glance or a hello, James slowed (quite a bit) asnd we chatted about the terrain and lejog. Eventually I had to shoo him on his way before he fell off his bike going at my speed up the hill(s). James I hope you had a brilliant ride. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the landscape was magnificent (but UP) It did eventually turn to DOWN but by then my legs were gone and they never returned throughout the day. 

Fed up of hills maybe I should try this!

My masochistic guide, Nick Mitchell, suggested lunch at Burton in Kendal which is at mile 27 which speaks volumes about the early topography. Between Burton in Kendal and Kendal I came across a catering caravan in a lay by which reminded me of Sal on the A68 from another trip. I stopped for a coffee. At £1 Anne and Jane were not part of a get rich quick scheme. However they were friendly and welcoming and when they asked if I was going far and heard the answer, they  offered me a donation for Samaritans. What lovely ladies and what a lovely gesture it made my day!

Anne and Jane

The rest of the day was a slog to get to Keswick before bed time. From Kendal there were 30 miles left to go on the A591, which was exceptionally busy with Friday week end holiday traffic. As I approached Windermere the clouds were gathering and drizzle turned into steady rain by the time I reached Ambleside. Both Windermere and Ambleside were heaving with tourists sporting anoraks and umbrellas and pretending that the weather didn't matter by continuing to eat outside. 

I was coping until I reached the Dunmail Raise with 11 miles to go to Keswick. A horrible 2 mile drag to an altitude of 250m with trucks and cars and lorries and vans thundering past. At the top, it went up again, I do hate false summits. But what goes up.....

By now the rain was coming down steadily and all of my equipment was given a good try out against the wet. It seems to have passed. My inside top was dry. The contents of my panniers and bar bag were dry and my GPS kept on functioning. My legs are shot but my spirits are high. 

As I came down the 14% hill into Keswick my mobile rang. I was my landlord for the night, Simon, who wondered where I was and if I was alright. I was able to tell him that I was 400m from his house and to expect me imminently. He was waiting by the fornt door and extended a warm welcome. The Brookfield guest house ( 5 rooms) is a well run establishment - the best so far. Everything is well organised and the provision is extensive. He and his wife deserve to do well.

Windermere

I have just returned from Keswick town centre where I have enjoyed one of, if not the best Indian meal ever at the Sultan Indian restaurant on John St. The lamb tikka was delivered to my table still sizzling away and the flavours were oooooohhh. The walk back up the hill wasn't great for the hamstrings but they survived to cycle another day.

Runcorn to Slaidburn

 June 16th

first glimpse of countryside

For once I got away at the time I intended.

Having spent last night in the Premier Inn in Runcorn I was well placed to start today's route along the busy A56 to Warrington. I managed to avoid a cooked breakfast and felt the better for it all morning. The morning route was through Warrington, Leigh, Bolton and the onward to Blackburn. They are virtually all joined in one giant conurbation which is very reminiscent of Coronation Street. Street after street of red brick terraces. Until Bolton it was predominantly flat but then it began to go up and continued up and down and up all the way to Slaidburn. 

Early in the day I had a recurrence of a technical issue. Because of the weight of the bar bag on the handlebars and the fact that I ride almost exclusively on the hoods, the hoods gradually slide down and forward and the droops back and up to the point that I can scarcely reach the brakes. Fortunately I had just the right allen key and it was the work of a few moments to return to normality. What a difference.

Kim, Jan and John

The route was varied and I quite enjoyed the contrast with the previous few days in the countryside full of agricultural smells. Today was more diesel than cow piss. The afternoon cycle through the forest of Bowland was quite spectacular except that I knew in advance that it would end with a big UP.

Just after Bob's Smithy Inn, which was just above Bolton, I came across three cycling amigos sitting on a bench by the side of the road. I stopped for a rest and to say hello. It turned out the they were Kim, Jan and John three cycling friends who were very welcoming and appeared interested in my journey.  They said I would remember their names because of the North Korean leader. I think it was Jan who was particularly keen to hear about my route because she had a desire to complete a lejog herself. The link to the GPS route is here:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1TSz73zsDWMqYJXR3KEDUrTjXQnKXnxob&usp=sharing

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=17RwLY961sN2wSdD33kkV5ayZRt-ohsEN&usp=sharing

We had a fine chat and then I  could feel the clock ticking and bade them farewell but not before we had taken some photos.

Kim, Brian and John

It took me nearly an hour to cross Blackburn but near the centre as I climbed a steep hill ( another steep hill) I spied a little bike shop which turned out to be a communithy not for profit bike shop.

 I purchased another spare tube and was given access to a track pump to get my tyres back up to 5 bar. The manager insisted on finding some dust caps for my bare valves and sent me off with good wishes. Although he couldn't understand why anyone would choose a route through Blackburn.

Blackburn Cathedral

I am staying tonight in the heart of Slaidburn in the Hark to Bounty Inn.

The Story Behind The Name....

The inn is reputed to date back to the 1300s, although most of the existing fabric of the building dates from the 16th century. The inn was known as The Dog until 1875, when the squire of the village, who was also the Rector, had a pack of hounds. One day whilst out hunting, he and his party called at the inn for refreshments. Their drinking was disturbed by a loud and prolonged baying from the pack outside. High above the noise of the other hounds could be heard the squire's favourite dog, which prompted him to call out ....

Hark to Bounty Inn

"Hark to Bounty!"

Upstairs in "The Bounty" is the Courtroom which was used as the local court from the early 19th century until the mid 1930s. This was originally the Manorial or "Moot" Court which dealt with local matters such as land transfers, disputes over land rights etc., in addition to the punishment of local miscreants.

Tonight is the end of day 7. In theory I am half way through my challenge so I thought I would reflect on the first week. It has certainly been hard and without the winter running training with Recreational Running I don't think I would have made it. My equipment is still in good order after the visit of the puncture fairy. I am almost scared to say this (but I am not supersticious) but I have had no twinges from my injured right hamstring. I have had the odd twinge from the left hamstring and yesterday a sore left calf for the last twenty or so miles, but all in all I am in good physical shape. I am not burned despite daily sunshine. I have been incredibly lucky with the weather - no rain and little wind. I am in good spirits and looking forward to meeting Pauline in 7 days time in John O' Groats.

Thanks to everyone who is supporting me directly or with messages passed through Pauline. I do apreciate your support. It really does help.

Clun to Runcorn

 June 15th

Clun is a tinyplace half the size of Freuchie but it had three pubs and two cafes and The White Horse Inn was the largest and most lively. There were 14 bikes parked in the garage (including my trusty, now, steed) there was a group of eight guys of about my age, but fat and unfit, who went off twice a year for a cycle tour ( and a food and drink extravaganza) I couldn't believe it when they ordered starters and mains and then puddings and when I went to bed they were set fair for the night with an array of wine and beer. Apparently the very accommodating landlord had eventually sent them off to bed telling them that he had to be up to serve breakfast.

I met them again at breakfast. Of the eight, four were going to be in the "support vehicle" for the day while the other four would cycle 20 miles or so. They were very interested in my venture and wished me well without adding to my total! They did keep me amused at breakfast with tales of past trips. "How would you like your steak sir, medium?" No I would prefer it to be large! boom, boom!

Shrewsbury

I eventually set off at 9.00 having been up and ready to roll at 07.30. The first two hours were difficult and up, climbing to 320m above sea level before descending through the Hope Valley Nature reserve. The remaining 70 miles were predominantly flat but needed constant navigation for the major routes were heading East to West and I was routed on country lanes heading North. The lanes were quiet and I didn't meet a soul until around 2pm when I arrived at the village of Hanmer and met Des a local worthy who was out on his electric bike for a little 15 mile circuit. 

Des

He was astounded when I told him where I had come from and my ultimate destination. He offered me cash for the Samaritans but I encouraged him to donate online. We chatted for at least 15 minutes. He kept asking questions and saying how fantastic my trip was. Quite a pick me up on a long day. At the time I wasn't sure if I was in Wales or England so I was treading carefully but Des was over the moon that England had lost 4-0 last evening and told me that he was a native Welsh speaker. End of doubt.

I had started the day in Wales then crossed into England, Shropshire, then back into Wales Wrexham county and finally back into England Cheshire. There were no signs. No "You are now entering Wales" but you could tell because the painted signs on the road in England said "SLOW" and in Wales "ARAF" and "SLOW"

The end of the day was the worst because I was riding along the busy A56. The wind which had not been noticeable all day picked up in my face and it started to blow through rain. It had become a race to get to the Premier Inn in Runcorn before the rain. I won. The Premier Inn in runcorn is huge. They have built a complete new three storey wing ( which is where I am comfortably installed for the night.) The motorway is very close but the triple glazing is doing its job and I look forward to a sound sleep ( or I may take them up on their sleep guarantee)

Church at Bellesfield

Although today was the longest leg so far, it had the least climbing and was therefor probably the easiest stage so far. I am tired tonight but not exhausted. My legs have got 640 kms in them and hopefully close to another 1000 kms left to come.

Monmouth to Clun

June 14th 

This was to be the shortest section of the whole trip described as easy/ moderate. Well I didn't find it easy or moderate. It was very lumpy and started with a steep climb and ended with a vertical climb. 

River Wye Hereford

Up at 7.00 breakfast at 7.30. on the road for 8.30 all was fine until I got to the centre of monmouth and no signs to Hereford. after a few false starts I foud the "footbridge linking classrooms of the Haberdashers' Monmouth School for girls" and followed the instruction to continue to ascend for 4 1/2 miles to the radio mast at Llancloudy. So much for the easy day.It did get better and half way to Hereford I came across a lady cyclist of indeterminate years who was making decent progress. When I caught up with her I asked her where she was going and it turned out she was going to Hereford (on my route) We got chatting and when we stopped because my chain had come off for the second time of the morning and the fourth or fifth altogether, we played a game of "guess where my accent is from" She thought I was Irish and I thought I heard a hint of German. I was right. Pass Go collect £200. When we hit the A49 a fast dual carriageway into Hereford where I was able to go faster on the downhill sections because of my droop handlebars so I didn't see her in Hereford.

Riverside Inn Aymestry

The navigation around Hereford was reasonably straightforward but thereafter it was a fairly lumpy up followed by level followed by up and so on. Nothing too terrible just NOT FLAT. The traffic was fairly busy but gave me generous space. 

I met no cyclists or anyone else for that matter  until later in the afternoon. In Wigmore two volunteers were teaching the p7 children how to ride their bikes on the road. One of the instructors asked me about my trip and shook my hand. He asked me if he could ask how old I was. I guess because I was making such slow progress up the hill into town.

Cycle Safety

Another solitary encounter was when I stopped to photograph an incredible yew hedge in Brampton Bryan. A blind lady was passing me guided by an alsatian labrador cross. I asked her about her dog and we got chatting. Brampton Bryan was a picture postcard village unlike most of the places that I passed through today.  Little of interest and few photos.

Incredible ancient yew hedge

The White Horse Inn in Clun is very lively and they brew their own beer in the back garden. Today was the least interesting day so far but I am here in one piece. My confidence was boosted by a cycling couple from York who are staying in the hotel tonight. the husband had done and end to end last year supported by a company which transported luggage etc. We got chatting and when I saud how old I was she exclaimed "NO WAY!" I like this Yorkshire lady.

View from the top of THE hill

For those that like to follow the route log in to Strava and follow me to see the detailed route.

Glastonbury to Monmouth

 June 13th

F***

For those of you who have said that you are enjoying reading my musings on here, this is for you. Last evening tired and weary I wrote a long account of this the worst day so far with pictures and lengthy descriptions of my prevails in I hope a fairly light hearted manner. However, somewhere along the way the final disaster occurred and rather than publish my account I completely lost my account. I spent half an hour this morning trying to find it in the cloud or in the sky or the ether but IT WAS GONE.

Now, Tuesday evening in Clun (pronounced to rhyme with one) at the White Horse Inn where I have just eaten the very best steak pie and chips I will attempt without a great deal of enthusiasm to reconstruct yesterday's tale of woe.

I was already suffering day 4 blues, when the original euphoria of setting out weaqrs off and you realise what you have undertaken. I was determined to get an early start when I discovered that I had left my sunblock at the previous stop. no big deal there was an Aldi nearby and I needed a bottle of water anyway.

When I got to my bike my heart sank. The back tyre was pancake flat. So, luggage off, tools out, bike upside down, tyre off ( easier said than done with Schwalbe super Marathon PUNCTURE PROOF tyres) When I got the tyre off the problem was immediately evident. A huge pinch in the tube which I presume happened when I hurtled over a cattle grid in Dartmoor. quite how it lasted so long is a mystery. New tube in (I had two spares - nobody fixes punctures these days) pumped up as hard as possible with my tiny pump and ready to go to aldi and off to Wells, home of the famous Cathedral. Annoying but not too damaging. An hour lost.

Entrance to Wells Cathedral

At Wells I felt compelled to visit the centre to see the Cathedral befor joining
the Old Bristol Road. Unfortunately I couldn't find it. Fortunately I found a Halfords (which the Cycle chat Community call Halfrauds) where a helpful young member of staff let me use his track pump and sold me a replacement tube. Half an hour of circling led to the postie guiding me up the Old Bristol Road. Up was the appropriate word up to 300m. Gear 28 was engaged from time to time. ( I have 27 gears) 

Once up I was on the Somerset levels which were reasonably level before a rapid descent to Chew Valley lake. On the descent my back wheel felt wobbly and when I checked it was soft. I added air three times before I eventually borrowed someone's drive to change the tube. Take two was a repeat of take one only it was the middle of the day and very hot.

Chew Lake

On the next descent my heart was in my mouth but tube 2 seemed to be fine (and still is today) The next section was a circle to the West of Bristol under the iconic Clifton Suspension Bridge and on to Avonmouth docks and then along the Severn to the Severn Crossing. Along the way in amongs the barreling lorries I spied a fellow cyclist pushing his bike on the other side of the road. I asked if he was alright and he showed me his flat tyre. I offered to give him what I thought was my last tube but he declined saying that my need was greater than his. He had called his wife who was on the way to pick him up. ( I discovered today that I had two more tubes and now I feel bad)

Clifton suspension Bridge

The lead up to the severn Bridge is a fast dual carriage way with lorries thundering past. the guide book said that cycles should leave 600m before the lorries on a cycle track NCN4. When I got there disaster. A notice cycleway closed follow diversion. I had no idea where the diversion was going but I made up my mind that if necessary I was on the main carriageway across the bridge!

Severn Crossing

 After afurther 400m I came to the sign for diverted traffic to turn left. Phew. I was still celebrating when A huge lorry brushed past me nearly knocking me from my bike. It was a contractor's lorry from the company who were making repairs hence the earlier closure.

As I crossed the bridge I was being buffeted by a cross wind which kept my eyes on the cycleway and off the view. Still not too bad. No real harm done. no need to throw myself off the Severn Bridge. I had got to Bristol and I would finish!

The next disaster was entirely self inflicted. A mile after the bridge was a huge roundabout with three lanes and five exits. I was supposed to take exit four which would skirt Chepstow and put me on the Wye valley road to Monmouth. I didn't like the look of cycling around the roundabout so I cheated and went right and took exit FIVE to Chepstow. An exhilirating descent of two miles took me into and out of Chepstow and when I saw a sign YOU ARE NOW ENTERING ENGLAND I realised my mistake. I had to climb all of the way back up to the roundabout before taking exit four to Monmouth.

Tintern Abbey

The Wye valley was pretty but it was at least five miles before I got my first glimpse of the river itself. It was a lovely ride up into Monmouth but by then I was tired and just wanted to get there which I duly did by 7.30. The Premier Inn in Monmouth is like every other which is the main reason to stay. Breakfast is served from 06.00 the beds are comfy and the showers are great and if you book at the right time they are incredibly good value for money.